Old Florida Fish House: Big Room, Lotta Fish
5235 E Hwy 30A, Seagrove Beach, 534-3045
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By Bruce Collier October 5, 2006 Issue


Old Florida Fish House occupies a much larger structure than a regular old house, even by Hwy 30A standards. The restaurant sits off the road, hidden somewhat by trees, and takes maximum advantage of its position on a bayou. There’s a long corridor to the dining area, lined with benches and even a patio midway down, for waiting guests to cool their heels during the peak season. I went there late for a drink during summer, and it was packed. This time, we ate early in the evening, and the place was still comfortably full when we left.

As were we. The two-page menu is fairly simple, with a fourth of the space devoted to kids’ meals and beef entrees. Starters, soups, and salads are on one side. The main course section offers seafood “old Florida style,” meaning deep-fried with french fries and hush puppies, and “Fish House favorites.” There’s a nice assortment of sides, which cost extra. A list of daily specials is posted just outside the front door, and, like the desserts, is also committed to the memory of your server.

We had a good one, Debbie. A former bartender, she concurred with my friend about the difficulties of getting a good Old Fashioned, and guaranteed results. She came through. Debbie was sharp, attentive, good humored, and took good care of us throughout the evening.

Old Florida Fish House is a big place, with high ceilings, sunken and concealed dining areas, and a bar/lounge where a band plays starting at 9 p.m. It can get pretty noisy when crowded, but the staff seems to stay on top of things.

Old Florida Fish House also has a full sushi bar. The sushi menu is extensive, but you have to sit at the bar for it. The dining room menu offers only five rolls. We got one, the cowboy roll, to have with our cocktails. The roll comes stuffed with medium rare steak, avocados, and green onions. Traditional, no —tasty, yes — and great with a martini.

For starters, I got a cup of corn and crab bisque, and my friend ordered blackened shrimp in pineapple beurre blanc sauce. Debbie brought a basket of warm rolls and seasoned butter. Both the bisque and shrimp were first rate. The crisp-charred shrimp tasted slightly of five-spice powder, and the pineapple gave the sauce a tart edge.

Other appetizer and soup choices are shrimp or lump crab cocktail, fried or marinated crab claws, fried green tomatoes with crabmeat, seafood gumbo, and a soup of the day, which was oyster bisque.

As tempting as the fried seafood was — a choice of grouper, shrimp, oysters, soft shell crab, lobster tail, or a mixed platter — we passed it by. My friend ordered veal picatta with shrimp and mushrooms, and I got one of the daily specials, scamp with deep-fried lobster. We split a side order of cheese grits, which was plenty for both of us. Other sides are steamed asparagus, french fries, collard greens, baked potato, onion rings, fried okra, and creamed spinach.

Both of us were pleased with our choice. My friend got a generous portion of tender veal, covered with shrimp and mushrooms, and a side of pasta with Alfredo sauce. Aside from the pasta, which was a bit gummy, everything else was very good.

I like scamp a lot, and am always tempted to get it. This was a hard decision, because the other specials included swordfish and seared tuna. I’m glad I got scamp, if for no other reason than the deep-fried lobster. The fish had a slight crust, and a slightly sweet/tart sauce. Grilled bok choy came on the side, and there are few vegetables better than that.

Other main courses were grilled, sautÈed, or amandine grouper, stuffed catch of the day, crab au gratin, grilled or blackened chicken breast, and pasta Louisiana, with crawfish and crab, or pasta with tomatoes, basil, garlic and olive oil. Beef selections included tournadoes with scallops and crab, filet mignon, T-bone, and New York strip.

Dessert came in threes, of which we got two, chocolate cake and key lime pie. Cheesecake was the other. Both were okay, but nothing special. You might want to skip dessert in favor of an after-dinner drink. Since the bartender seems to know his stuff, make it a brandy alexander or pink squirrel.

Now that the summer crowds are gone, it’s worth your time and dining dollar to make a trip to the bayou country and try Old Florida Fish House. No waiting, and they’ll look after you.

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