Mary’s Kitchen: still country after all these years
186-G Eglin Pkwy. NE, Fort Walton Beach, 863-1141
Reservations: Not necessary


By Bruce Collier
April 3, 2008 Issue

II had not eaten at Mary’s Kitchen since back in the 90s, in its old location. I remember two things about it - the smoky scent of barbecue and the amazing assortment of pies. Mary’s has moved operations to a heavily-traveled corner. It’s still a go-to spot for local working people, especially for lunch. I can’t begin to recall what was on the menu at the old location, but I know they were serving the house’s two specialties - pork barbecue and fried catfish. They still are.

We ate at Mary’s on a quiet Wednesday, early in the evening. Diners have a choice of tables and booths. The tables are nicely spaced, with wooden chairs and blue-and-white checked table cloths. Just behind the cash register, one can see the pork making its transformation to barbecue in an open pit that is actually open. The walls are decorated with domestic-themed prints. On the tables are bottles of pepper sauce, barbecue sauce, and peppers in vinegar, the trinity of country condiments.

Our server gave us menus, and I noticed a special - meatloaf - written on a chalkboard. I asked her opinion. She spoke right up and said it wasn’t her favorite way of making meatloaf, but that a lot of people liked it. Fair enough. Mary’s offers pulled pork barbecue sandwiches and dinners, fried catfish, burgers, a chicken sandwich, dinner salads, and a selection of “country dinners,” served from lunch to closing. The latter are baked chicken breast, beef tips and rice, grilled pork chops, and hamburger steak.

The sides get their own section, and rightly so. There are 10 of them: potato salad, home fries, green beans, baked beans, mashed potatoes, fried okra, cole slaw, turnip greens, macaroni and cheese, and fried green tomatoes. Many of the dinners come with a choice of two or three sides, in the old plate lunch tradition. Several of the main course items come in regular and large-sized portions.

There are no appetizers, so we jumped right in and ordered. The kitchen seems to be especially proud of its barbecue and catfish. My friend got the pulled pork dinner - regular size - with green beans and turnip greens. I ordered fried catfish - also regular size - with mashed potatoes and baked beans.

The regular order of catfish is two fillets, coated in seasoned cornmeal and deep-fried. Both were smoking hot, and stayed that way. The fish was flaky, tender, and greaseless. The mashed potatoes come with gravy, so if you don’t want it, tell them in advance. The baked beans have a slightly sweet and tangy sauce, with bits of smoky meat for seasoning.

My friend, a well-traveled barbecue lover, found the pork to be on mild side, but was pleased with its tenderness. Barbecue can stand on its own, but a sauce is always good, especially with some toasted bread to clean up the plate. Mary’s serves a standard, slightly sweet red sauce with the pork. The side greens were also mildly seasoned, but heat can always be added.

We made a point of saving room for pie, hoping for a wide range of choices. On the night we were there, the kitchen had only three pies - coconut cream, lemon meringue, and apple. The server told us that a recent staff change had resulted in a temporary limitation on the kitchen’s usual selection, which she said is between seven and 10 kinds of pie. They also serve cake, but we didn’t think to ask about that.

We got the coconut and the apple. The former was a little runny, with a sliding meringue, but the taste was all right. The apple was much better, with a tender crust and just enough cinnamon. The server said the kitchen is working on broadening the range of choices.

The menu says the restaurant has been in business since 1950. Rather than attempting to be all things to all diners, Mary’s Kitchen has stuck with what it does best - barbecue, catfish, and simple, hearty fare that keeps customers coming back.

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