Longhorn Steakhouse: Dependable Steaks, and More
544 Mary Esther Cut-off, Mary Esther, 310-1020
By Bruce Collier February 9, 2006 Issue
3/4

We ate at the Longhorn in Mary Esther. Though it was a weeknight, the joint was jumping, heavy on families and large parties. As the name suggests, the decor here is Old West. Unlike some other Longhorn restaurants, however, this one has a more restrained, almost “artistic” feel.

Instead of scads of riding tack and faux cowboy knickknacks, the walls here are hung with paintings of the Remington and Russell variety. There’s a lot of copper, and the lighting would not be out of place in a romantic dining spot. Not to worry, however, because you can still get margaritas, and the staff troops out periodically to serenade tables, singing some jingle I couldn’t quite make out.

Longhorn makes an effort to cater to those with less of a taste for large portions of grilled beef. You can get chicken, pork, fish, and dinner salads, even liver. Lunch offers sandwiches, including one of the area’s better hamburgers. Side dishes get their own section. Ridiculously outsized desserts await the still hungry, and those dining professionally.

My friend was delighted to discover that the bartender could make a good Old Fashioned. Our indestructibly cheerful server did a good job of keeping things going among the many diners in her charge. We ordered starters.

I got the Firecracker Chicken Wraps, and my friend chose the stuffed shrimp Santa Fe. Both were large enough to make a light meal, or a good accompaniment to beer and TV (in the bar/lounge area).

The wraps were made of crisp-fried tortillas, stuffed with slightly spicy grilled chicken and served with a creamy avocado-lime dipping sauce. The shrimp sported an unusually crunchy breading, and were plump with melted pepper jack cheese. I usually don’t care for cheese with seafood, but these were good, especially when eaten smoking hot.

I had heard good reports of Longhorn’s grilled salmon, but I also wanted to give their steaks a try. No problem. There’s a filet and salmon combination. At around $21, it’s a bargain, and also the most expensive item on the menu. Not bad at all for a steakhouse. My friend got a blue cheese-crusted filet, larger in size than mine.

The salmon was, indeed, exceptional. It was perfectly grilled, moist, with a nice char and a marinade that tasted slightly of ginger. The filet was prepared as ordered, and didn’t need any sauce at all. Rice and fresh asparagus came on the side.

My friend’s filet was a little overdone at the thinner edges, but was all right at the thick center. The steak rested on a fat and juicy Portobello mushroom. She got a sweet potato, served with butter and cinnamon, on the side.

Other steak and beef choices include a 20-ounce porterhouse, chopped steak, T-bone, ribeye, filet tips, New York strip, and prime rib. The filet is available wrapped in bacon, or accompanied by grilled shrimp. Pork chops and baby back ribs can be had. Odds and ends include fried or grilled chicken, shrimp, and sandwiches.

The sides, which can be ordered separately, include seasonal vegetables, brandied cinnamon apples, mashed potatoes, sliced tomatoes, baked potato, seasoned fries, and jalapeno cole slaw.

Even if you can’t eat another bite, you ought to try dessert. It can be done. My friend ordered the Caramel Apple Gold Rush, and I got fried cheesecake. The Gold Rush was about the size of my head, brown sugar and cinnamon-glazed apples baked in flaky pastry, topped with caramel sauce and about a half-pint of vanilla ice cream. My cheesecake was actually several small squares, with a sweet and crunchy crust, floating in whipped cream and strawberries.

Other dessert options are Chocolate Stampede, chocolate cake with mousse, fudge icing, chocolate shavings, and so on, cookie dough cheesecake, key lime pie, and walnut fudge brownie. The server told us about another dessert, but I had eaten myself into virtual deafness.

Anyone who eats steak has probably eaten at a Longhorn Steakhouse, somewhere. Overall, the menu tends to be the same, with a bit of variation from restaurant to restaurant. For some, this translates into consistency. For others sameness. Whatever your viewpoint, you can be reasonably confident that Longhorn’s cooks know what they are doing, and that you’ll get a good steak, or whatever you order, at a fair price.