|
“I just wanted to work in a fish market.”
Chef John Jacob
of Destin’s Vin’tij restaurant refers to his first job
in food biz, one he started in high school. The Westville, N.J.
native describes the fish market as “typical” of the
area, owned and operated by an Italian family, but with a difference
that proved significant for him.
“There
were a lot of prepared foods there,” he says, “there
wasn’t anything else like it at the time,” which was
in 1984-85. It was his introduction not only to professional food
preparation, but to fish and seafood. “I got my hankering
there for all things fish,” he says. Jacob learned everything
he could about the subject, from purchasing - at New York’s
legendary Fulton market - to cutting and prepping. He worked at
the market for 1 1/2 years. Then, he says, “I went to Maine
for a weekend, and stayed.”
Jacob moved
to Bar Harbor, a well-known resort for the wealthy, and sought work
in a fish market. Nothing was available, so he worked at a restaurant.
“I hated it for a month,” he says. He stuck with it,
partly out of a love for the area - Jacob had vacationed in Maine
growing up - and partly out of his growing interest in “making
something that tastes good.” This desire led him to enroll
in the New York Restaurant School, for a nine-month course in his
craft. From there, he interned at the Bridge Cafe, a restaurant
in New York’s financial district. This was in spring and summer
of 1988, and he did “a little bit of everything,” including
facing the weekly appearance of “about a thousand Friday-minded
stockbrokers” in search of food and drink. Jacob tired of
city life and the daily commute from New Jersey. In 1989-90, he
moved back to Maine and worked in the kitchen of a private club.
An impromptu
invitation from a friend to “drive cross-country” led
Jacob West. He got as far as Arizona, where finances compelled him
to take a job as a short-order cook near Flagstaff. “I learned
how to cook eggs,” he says. Though acknowledging the beauty
of the desert, Jacob longed to be near water, and moved to Seattle,
working at a restautant there for five years. Restless again, he
called his alma mater (which has a placement service for grads)
and said, “I want a beach, an island, a break.”
Among the choices
available was the Straight Wharf, a restaurant on a wharf of the
same name, on an island about as far away from Seattle as one can
go and still be in America - Nantucket. The gig carried a promotion,
and Jacob was now a sous-chef. Then he worked again in Seattle.
Finally, around 1992, he had an opportunity to move to a house in
a somewhat-unspoiled part of the Florida Panhandle called CR-30A.
“I wanted to get back to a beach,” he says. Jacob read
an article about a restaurant called Bud & Alley’s, and
called about work. Told there was nothing available, he “bugged”
the owner for several weeks, until an opening came for lead line
cook. This was when Bud & Alley’s was one of only a handful
of restaurants in the now eatery-dense area. Jacob became head chef
there in 1994, staying until 1995. He was approached about a new
restaurant called Frangista. He worked there until 1998. The project
succeeded at first, then “went haywire.” Jacob says
he was well-treated, but wasn’t happy, and left. Frangista
eventually closed, then was bulldozed off the face of the earth.
In 1998, Jacob
was approached by a group of people, including Tod Reber and David
Biegler, to serve as a consultant for a new project, “a wine
bar serving wine-friendly hors d’oeuvres.” Jacob, in
need of a position, says “I pushed a restaurant on them.”
In 1998, Vin’tij opened, offering a wine bar, full menu, and
retail wine sales all under one roof. The menu, and staff, started
small, but both have grown. Vin’tij now serves lunch and dinner
daily. In addition to retail wine sales, Vin’tij stages occasional
events spotlighting specific wines and vineyards. The kitchen staff
has grown to four or five cooks assisting Jacob. He says everything
is made in-house, including desserts. Fish - locally caught and
bought - remains his passion, though the menu always has other items.
Jacob keeps
busy in his off-duty hours, fly-fishing, bicycling, skateboarding,
and playing guitar (not very well, he admits). In cooking for himself,
“it’s fun to just get some ingredients and stand in
the kitchen.” Recently, he made a batch of cornbread at home,
then stir-fried some vegetables with barbecue sauce. He thinks about
it.
“It was
good,” he says.
(Top)
|