Connie Kay’s Flight Line Pub & Cafe: Have I been here before?
538 N. Eglin Pkwy, Fort Walton Beach, 862-0445
Hours: Open Tues-Sat 4 p.m.
Sunday @ 11 a.m. Reservations: Not necessary
2/3

By Bruce Collier August 23, 2007 Issue

Walking into Connie Kay’s Flight Line Pub & Cafe in Fort Walton Beach gave me a sense of deja vu. I went to college in Ohio — near Fairborn, site of Wright Patterson Air Force Base — and I used to frequent a place there called the Airway Inn. It burned to the ground decades ago and was never rebuilt, probably because establishments like the Airway, and Connie Kay’s, can’t be rebuilt, only replicated.

It’s a simple, straightforward place, with a bar on one side, tables and chairs on the other, a small stage — for bands and karaoke — and multiple televisions. There’s another room, with pool and game tables, and a covered patio outside for smokers and other outdoor types. The walls outside boast hand-painted aircraft and military scenes. Inside, the wall art consists of beer and sports posters, patriotic messages ranging from the reverent to the mildly belligerent (see outside art), and eclectic decorative odds and ends tacked up by generations of patrons and employees.

The Flight Line, as it is popularly known, serves beer and wine, along with wine-based beverages. The two-page menu offers the kind of hearty food that’s quick to prepare or prepare ahead, to be eaten with pitchers of beer and lots of friends. Kids are obviously okay with the management, since there is a children’s menu. The kitchen appears to occupy a tiny corner near the bar, and it looks like a one-person operation, at least on the night we were there.

We sat, ordered a couple of drafts and a basket of chips and salsa to eat while deciding. The salsa was thick, slightly sweet, and mild. The chips were the sturdy “restaurant” type that stood up to the salsa. Our server kept an eye on us, bringing second rounds and even inquiring if we were finished with the chips before bringing out the main meal. I have eaten at plenty of high-priced places that don’t bother to ask that simple question, so there.

The Flight Line did not have a to-go menu, so what follows comes from a written list made after dinner. Starters include wings, nachos, chicken tenders, and a cheese/jalapeno/chicken dip with chips. There are also salads, both as sides and with chicken, and a separate section on chili.

Once again, my Ohio-raised senses picked up something familiar. The Flight Line serves a simple ground beef, onion and garlic chili, the beef finely ground so as to produce something between a soup and a stew. My friend took a taste, and wondered about the flavor she was getting. I tried it, and was pretty sure it was cinnamon. If you’ve ever had chili in Ohio, especially around Cincinnati, you know about cinnamon in chili. After a few more bites, and some crackers, my friend took to it.

Another Cincinnati touch was spaghetti sauced with chili, designated as three-, four-, or five-way, meaning with additional cheese, onions, beans, etc. Finally, when I saw grilled cheese and bacon sandwiches, I was convinced there was a Buckeye in the woodwork.

For the rest, the menu offers chicken, fried shrimp, BLT and other sandwiches, and a respectable list of hamburgers. Burgers and beer are always seductive, so I ordered one with mushrooms and swiss, and a side of onion rings. My friend ordered the grilled cheese and bacon. She hails from Indiana, so this was soul-food night for the both of us.

The cheese and bacon on buttery bread tasted like lunch at Mom’s. The burger was large, cooked to a juicy medium, with plenty of cheese and mushrooms. The kitchen put the pickle, tomatoes, raw onions, and packet of mayo all on the side. The Flight Line obviously figured me for a big boy who could make up his own mind on how to dress a burger. The onion rings were hot, and sweet.

My friend wondered about dessert, which is not on the menu. Not expecting anything, we asked, and were told the house had ice cream cakes. That is, literal cakes of ice cream. They offered one with cookies, a double chocolate, and a caramel pecan. We got the latter two. Each was large enough to serve two, topped with chocolate syrup and reasonable facsimile of whipped cream. I ask you, what else would you get after chili, burgers, grilled cheese and beer? Charlotte Russe? I don’t think so, buddy.

In this age of chains and high-priced recreations of retro restaurant styles, the Flight Line is just what it appears to be — a beer, music and sandwich joint located on pretty much anybody’s way home from work. If you haven’t tried it, give it a spin. I bet it will look familiar to you, too.

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