By Bruce Collier
May 28, 2009 Issue
We ate
at Breeze Bar & Grill on a recent weeknight. Everyone on the
staff was friendly, smiling, and in the case of the young ladies,
perky as pups and cute as a box of buttons.
Breeze Bar & Grill
sits in a large, house-like structure on Emerald Coast Parkway.
There's plenty of room, with high ceilings and the seating mainly
in a large inner dining room running parallel to the bar/lounge.
The walls are decorated with paintings and posters, with a corridor
full of photos near the restroom area.
We arrived a little
after 6 p.m., and a solo guitar player was offering up some bar
standards (Buffett, Kenny Rogers, etc.). Three TVs were going,
and someone had a radio. My dining companion found the mixed media
a little disconcerting, even facing away from the TVs. It eased
up, but between that and the live band scheduled that night, you
can expect that dinner at Breeze Bar & Grill will be a lively
evening.
Apparently the word
is getting out. Within an hour after we arrived, the staff was
fitting foursome tables together to accommodate three large groups.
There were families, kids and even a birthday party. The staff
kept moving in and out among us, taking orders, clearing tables
and generally asking how things were.
They were fine. We
ordered drinks, then took the server's recommendation and ordered
"flatbread of the day" as a starter. That day it was
chicken cordon bleu, chunks of white meat in a light alfredo sauce
with caramelized red onions. The portion was plenty for sharing,
and some went home. The bread was hot and crispy, and the sauce
was light—a pleasant surprise with any cheese-based sauce.
Other appetizers are
a daily soup, corn and crab chowder, tempura scallops, sugarcane
grilled shrimp, crab sliders, bruschetta, chorizo and cheese empanadas,
tuna or crab dip, shellfish nachos, and assorted wings.
For the main event,
I stuck with the specials and ordered blackened softshell crab,
with a garlic chive butter sauce, sweet potato fries and grilled
vegetables. My friend ordered a 12-ounce strip steak, with asparagus,
potato cake and a sauce of smoked shiitake butter and soy balsamic
glaze. The kitchen offers a variety of sauces for selected entrees,
and the server can make recommendations.
Softshell crab is usually
deep-fried or grilled, so I was curious about how it would taste
blackened. My two crabs were large and juicy, full of creamy tender
meat. The blackening spices gave it a salty, spicy punch that
paired well with the sweet potatoes and lightly-charred vegetables.
The steak was grilled
as ordered, and the crunchy potato cake offered several varieties
of spud. As with the crab, portions were generous. Part of the
steak went home for next day's lunch.
Other main course selections
include a double-burger with customized toppings, seafood buckets,
salads, fish-of-the-day, beer-can roasted chicken, chicken diablo
pasta, pork porterhouse, flank or filet steak, lobster roll, fish
tacos, barbecue chicken sandwich, Philly cheese dip, and both
regular and oyster BLTs. There are daily specials.
There's also dessert.
We chose to share. As with the appetizer, it proved a wise decision.
On offer that night were an almond croissant with candied peaches
and bourbon vanilla ice cream, caramel fudge pecan cake, passion
fruit and vanilla creme brulee, "chocolate nachos,"
and a trio of sorbets. We picked the croissant.
The croissant rested
on a mound of warm, boozed-up peach slices, cooled down by a scoop
of ice cream, plus toasted almonds and whipped topping. It was
a little like an upside-down cake, but less cloying. The slightly
sweet, flaky croissant was a nice contrast to the sweetness of
the fruit. It's a really well-executed dessert.
Breeze Bar & Grill
is in the midst of its opening week(s). By the time this piece
runs, they should be open every day, and will offer a Sunday brunch.
There's a full bar, and assorted live bands and single artists
will be playing in the bar/lounge area.

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