Boars
Head: Worth Heading to Panama City Beach
17290 Front Beach Road,
Panama City Beach, 850-234-6628
By
Bruce Collier March 27, 2003 Issue





The atmosphere
at Boars Head Restaurant & Tavern in Panama City Beach
is sort of English Pub Meets Panhandle Fish House. The smoker-friendly
tavern section, which offers both tables and booths, is done in
dark, rough wood, with (yes) boars heads, and one rump,
hung everywhere. Along with all that decorative pork are British
pub signs, neon American beer paraphernalia, and mounted specimens
of Gulf fish. Its a mélange, and it all somehow works
together, as does the extensive and varied menu of meat, fish
and shellfish, simply and deliciously prepared.
Our server
was a friendly, knowledgeable, and energetic young lady who managed
to take care of everyone in the tavern save those drinking at
the bar. She and the busboy, her only assistant, were both efficient
and observant, timing their table visits to just the right moment,
keeping water glasses filled and bread replenished.
After reciting
the evenings specials and informing us of what the kitchen
was out of, she took our drink orders and left us to the menus.
I chose an appetizer portion of one of the nights specials,
Jonah crab claws steamed and served with drawn butter. My friend
ordered the char-grilled shrimp. Jonah crab looks very similar
to stone crab, which is often served cold with a
remoulade. My claws came hot, pre-cracked, and were worth the
time and effort to get at the sweet meat. The portion was large
enough for a meal. My friends shrimp were fewer in number
(five), but were large and practically swimming in an herb, citrus
and butter sauce that went well with the hot and crusty baguettes
that kept coming. My appetizer took some time to eat, and the
server was careful to wait until I had finished before bringing
the salad. She was moving fast, but she didnt miss anything.
Other appetizer
choices are: lobster bisque, stuffed mushrooms, shrimp cocktail,
fried crab fingers, fried alligator, baby back pork ribs, snails
and artichokes, and fried lobster.
The dinner
salads were a cut above the usual icy greens and tomatoes, with
good quality house-made dressings. More bread arrived and with
real butter.
Grilling is
the cooking method of choice for many of the entrees, and the
Boars Head gives you a wide selection of meats and seafood.
Available are various cuts of beef, including filet, prime rib,
and New York Strip. Also offered are Australian and Maine lobster,
crab legs, chicken Cordon Bleu, pork ribs, and Gulf fish and shellfish
served grilled, blackened, seared or
Deep-fried. I was interested to see that they also had quail and
venison, the latter not a common restaurant item hereabouts, especially
as a regular offering. My friend ordered one of the evenings
specials, Beef Burgundy. I got the game.
The beef arrived
cooked as requested. It was fork tender, with a rich sauce that
had the tang of red wine. My friend wanted the mashed sweet potatoes
listed as a side, but our server informed us that they are a seasonal
offering, and now is not the season. I asked for the venison grilled
medium rare, and so it came. I estimate it was about a six-ounce
filet, no fat, with a tasty sirloin-like chew and a mild flavor.
The quails backbone had been removed, and it was stuffed
with finely chopped mushrooms, herbs and almonds. Boning made
it easy to cut and eat, and the toothpick-like legs made for a
few good bites. Thick garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed
greens and vegetables completed the entree.
Boars
Head does not have a regular dessert menu, instead offering a
dessert display tray our petite server hoisted with practiced
ease. On the night we ate the choices were: chocolate mousse,
mile high cheesecake with cherry topping, brownie pie, Derby pie,
key lime pie, and an enormous chunk of chocolate layer cake, called
the Double Diablo. I got the Derby pie and my friend went with
El Diablo. Mine was served warm, with vanilla ice cream, and tasted
as promised like a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie. The Diablo
was a little chilly for its namesake, but tender and full of chocolate.
My friend managed about a fourth of it before ordering up a to-go
box.
On certain
nights, the Boars Head features live entertainment in the
tavern area. On our night it was a solo singer/guitarist with
a wide repertoire that had a number of couples moving around on
the dance floor. By the time we left, the place was filling up,
especially with large family and vacation party groups. The atmosphere
in the tavern area was convivial, as you might
expect, but in a family-friendly sort of way. Everyone seemed
happy and relaxed, and it wasnt entirely due to the beverages.
Unless you
are a spring breaker, Panama City Beach at this time of year may
not be your idea of a good place to visit. Still, if you care
to brave the crowds and travel east to Panama City Beach, youre
in for a pleasant surprise. Or maybe its not a surprise.
The Boars Head has been around since 1978, a virtual lifetime
in restaurant years for these parts. Though offering a full
bar and wine service, the Boars Head does not appear to
be a mecca for college revelers. The crowd on the night we ate
there was largely middle aged and predominantly local. One got
the feeling that many of the diners were regular customers. Considering
the food, value and exceptional service, that too was no surprise.
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