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Boar’s Head: Worth Heading to Panama City Beach
17290 Front Beach Road, Panama City Beach, 850-234-6628
By Bruce Collier March 27, 2003 Issue

The atmosphere at Boar’s Head Restaurant & Tavern in Panama City Beach is sort of English Pub Meets Panhandle Fish House. The smoker-friendly tavern section, which offers both tables and booths, is done in dark, rough wood, with (yes) boars’ heads, and one rump, hung everywhere. Along with all that decorative pork are British pub signs, neon American beer paraphernalia, and mounted specimens of Gulf fish. It’s a mélange, and it all somehow works together, as does the extensive and varied menu of meat, fish and shellfish, simply and deliciously prepared.

Our server was a friendly, knowledgeable, and energetic young lady who managed to take care of everyone in the tavern save those drinking at the bar. She and the busboy, her only assistant, were both efficient and observant, timing their table visits to just the right moment, keeping water glasses filled and bread replenished.

After reciting the evening’s specials and informing us of what the kitchen was out of, she took our drink orders and left us to the menus. I chose an appetizer portion of one of the night’s specials, Jonah crab claws steamed and served with drawn butter. My friend ordered the char-grilled shrimp. Jonah crab looks very similar to stone crab, which is often served cold with a
remoulade. My claws came hot, pre-cracked, and were worth the time and effort to get at the sweet meat. The portion was large enough for a meal. My friend’s shrimp were fewer in number (five), but were large and practically swimming in an herb, citrus and butter sauce that went well with the hot and crusty baguettes that kept coming. My appetizer took some time to eat, and the server was careful to wait until I had finished before bringing the salad. She was moving fast, but she didn’t miss anything.

Other appetizer choices are: lobster bisque, stuffed mushrooms, shrimp cocktail, fried crab fingers, fried alligator, baby back pork ribs, snails and artichokes, and fried lobster.

The dinner salads were a cut above the usual icy greens and tomatoes, with good quality house-made dressings. More bread arrived and with real butter.

Grilling is the cooking method of choice for many of the entrees, and the Boar’s Head gives you a wide selection of meats and seafood. Available are various cuts of beef, including filet, prime rib, and New York Strip. Also offered are Australian and Maine lobster, crab legs, chicken Cordon Bleu, pork ribs, and Gulf fish and shellfish served grilled, blackened, seared or
Deep-fried. I was interested to see that they also had quail and venison, the latter not a common restaurant item hereabouts, especially as a regular offering. My friend ordered one of the evening’s specials, Beef Burgundy. I got the game.

The beef arrived cooked as requested. It was fork tender, with a rich sauce that had the tang of red wine. My friend wanted the mashed sweet potatoes listed as a side, but our server informed us that they are a seasonal offering, and now is not the season. I asked for the venison grilled medium rare, and so it came. I estimate it was about a six-ounce filet, no fat, with a tasty sirloin-like chew and a mild flavor. The quail’s backbone had been removed, and it was stuffed with finely chopped mushrooms, herbs and almonds. Boning made it easy to cut and eat, and the toothpick-like legs made for a few good bites. Thick garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed greens and vegetables completed the entree.

Boar’s Head does not have a regular dessert menu, instead offering a dessert display tray our petite server hoisted with practiced ease. On the night we ate the choices were: chocolate mousse, mile high cheesecake with cherry topping, brownie pie, Derby pie, key lime pie, and an enormous chunk of chocolate layer cake, called the Double Diablo. I got the Derby pie and my friend went with El Diablo. Mine was served warm, with vanilla ice cream, and tasted as promised like a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie. The Diablo was a little chilly for its namesake, but tender and full of chocolate. My friend managed about a fourth of it before ordering up a to-go box.

On certain nights, the Boar’s Head features live entertainment in the tavern area. On our night it was a solo singer/guitarist with a wide repertoire that had a number of couples moving around on the dance floor. By the time we left, the place was filling up, especially with large family and vacation party groups. The atmosphere in the tavern area was convivial, as you might
expect, but in a family-friendly sort of way. Everyone seemed happy and relaxed, and it wasn’t entirely due to the beverages.

Unless you are a spring breaker, Panama City Beach at this time of year may not be your idea of a good place to visit. Still, if you care to brave the crowds and travel east to Panama City Beach, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Or maybe it’s not a surprise. The Boar’s Head has been around since 1978, a virtual lifetime in restaurant years for these parts. Though offering a full
bar and wine service, the Boar’s Head does not appear to be a mecca for college revelers. The crowd on the night we ate there was largely middle aged and predominantly local. One got the feeling that many of the diners were regular customers. Considering the food, value and exceptional service, that too was no surprise. (Top)

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