baby J's: Casual Yet Refined Dining on the Harbor
194 Harbor Blvd.; Destin, (850) 269-2222

Hours: Mon-Thurs at 4 p.m., Fri-Sun at 11 a.m.
Reservations: Accepted for large parties
Children’s Menu: Yes
Major credit cards (no American Express)
Dress: Casual

By Bruce Collier
OCtober 2, 2008 Issue

baby J's has been open for a couple of months, and I knew very little about it going in, except that it is located on the harbor in one of the most-touristy areas of "old" Destin. I half-expected it to be full of loud music, with a short menu of burgers, fried seafood, and pitchers of beer. Well, they had music, but it was soft, and though there was a burger on the menu and beer was available, baby J's offers many pleasant surprises.

The place sits on the docks, and diners can choose between outside and inside seating. Once inside, there's another choice between upstairs and downstairs. We went up the semi-circular staircase to an open-air bar and outdoor deck, which offers a view of the yachts gathering salt in the post-season harbor. Downstairs, which may remind you of an old-fashioned riverboat salon, has more traditional seating. Upstairs the seating is either at the bar or on backless high-stools at wooden tables. The dÈcor—which we were told is in transition—is nautical-themed, in keeping with the always-welcome view of the water.

There are several televisions, including one at the bar, kept at a polite sound level. In fact, I was amazed at how quiet it can get on the harbor, even with music from neighboring restaurants drifting over.

Once we were seated, our friendly server came over to tell us about the night's specials and some early evening half-price deals that were about to expire (it was nearly 7 p.m.). We took advantage of the deal and ordered three starters—oysters on the half-shell, a sushi roll, and a smoked fish dip. All were at a reduced price, and a good value. The oysters were the small, briny and flavorful variety. The house thoughtfully provides a tall glass in which to put the wrappers from the saltine crackers "so they won't blow away," said the server. I ordered six, but the barman threw in a seventh. Nice fellow.

The sushi roll was large, sliced into bites, and full of fresh tuna, creamy cheese, mango and avocado, making it rich, sweet and tangy all at once. The dip was very creamy, but the smoked fish (I think it was tuna) maintained its identity amid the mayonnaise, onion and tomato. The house furnishes plenty of crunchy pita chips for scooping, and threw in even more when my friend had it boxed to go.

Other starters are chicken or beef satay, steamed shrimp, tuna tartare, corn and crab bisque, and a shrimp quesadilla with fruit and cheese filling that I'll have to go back and try. There are three salads—spinach and strawberry, Caesar, and a mixed green salad with apples and goat cheese. Chicken, fish or shrimp can be added to the salads.

The rest of the menu offers lunch items (which our server said could be ordered in the evening as well), and main courses, including daily specials and a pasta-of-the-day. We each got a special. My friend ordered a pesto-coated grouper filet served over lentils with grilled squash. I got seared tuna with a sweet and spicy glaze, served sliced over a cake of rice with a warm slaw.

The chunk of grouper was tender and juicy, and stood up well to the basil-rich pesto. The lentils were an earthy change of pace, and grilled vegetables belong on every plate. My tuna was seared rare as ordered, and the rice cake was slightly crisp on the outside. The slaw was crunchy and filled with cabbage, cucumber and sliced mushrooms in an Asian-inspired dressing.

Other main course items are sandwiches with grilled local fish, blackened fish tacos, beef, chicken or shrimp kebabs, a burger, and wraps. There's also the catch of the day served steamed, grilled or blackened, a seafood sampler, filet mignon, surf and turf, and roast chicken breast.

Portions are generous, but there is dessert for the professional diner. That night it was crËme brulee, key lime pie, chocolate cake, and an orange "dreamsicle" cake. We split a chocolate cake, which was plenty for two. It was a layer cake, filled with thick and creamy chocolate icing. Like the rest of the menu items, desserts vary from night to night.

At the time we ate there, baby J's served only beer and wine, but we were told that a full liquor license is in the near future. In this post-summer season, baby J's appears to be feeling its way toward a clientele that goes to the harbor for the feel of the outdoors, but wants more refinement than just bar snacks and sandwiches. They have made a good start in a prime location.

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